Notes from a Richmond Chef

Food related ideas, thoughts, recipes or anything else I care to share.

Fiddlehead Ferns, Roasted Wild Mushrooms, Soft Egg, Watercress, Saba Emulsion, Fennel Pollen


Fiddlehead Ferns - cooked briefly in boiling water, then shocked in an ice bath. The ferns are finished with a quick saute in butter with fresh thyme, bay leaves and garlic.

Wild Mushrooms - Black trumpet, hedgehog and yellow foot mushrooms are tossed in a little bit of extra virgin olive oil, then dry roasted to help them release some moisture.

Soft Egg - This egg is cooked in a way so that the white and yolk have a texture similar to custard. We use eggs from Ringer Farms.

Watercress - Leaves are clipped from the head to order.

Saba Emulsion - Since we don’t have grape must in-house our saba is made with a mixture of wine, grapes and a little bit of sugar. For this dish the win-grape mixture is cooked down with dried porcini mushrooms. Once the sauce has been reduced by 3/4 it’s strained and emulsified with some dijon mustard and extra virgin olive oil.

The dish is finished with a small pinch of fennel pollen, a drizzle of saba emulsion and some flowers from the eastern redbud tree. The flowers not only compliment the presentation, but also provides a bright note that completes the dish.



Goat Sausage, Roasted Olives with Red Chile, Raisin Puree and Peanuts

Goat from Spring Gate Farm (Barboursville) is ground with a bit of pork shoulder and pork fatback to make this sausage. Since goat is a lean meat it’s necessary to add the pork so that it’s fat can help with emulsification. This creates the proper texture expected in a ground sausage. I’ve seasoned it with fresh garlic and baharat, an Arab spice blend that commonly includes allspice, cardamom, cinnamom, coriander, black pepper, cloves, nutmeg and paprika.

Each element plays a key role in completing this dish:

Goat Sausage - rich, savory, warm
Roasted Olives & Red Chile - briny, salty, spicy
Raisin Puree - sweet, smooth and creamy
Peanuts - crunchy texture, roasted

Foraged violets and chickweed garnish the dish. They add color and vibrancy, but also provide a fresh flavor that’s reminiscent of Spring. The violets are bright and floral while the chickweed adds a sweet and slightly peppery note.

The Food at Meddle. Photos by: Sara Adduci

The Menu. Photo by: Sara Adduci

The Menu. Photo by: Sara Adduci

Black and white series of photos from the Meddle Pop-up at The Roosevelt this past Sunday and Monday night. Photos taken by: Sara Adduci

Calm before the storm. Getting ready @RooseveltRVA for #Meddlepopup (Taken with instagram)

Calm before the storm. Getting ready @RooseveltRVA for #Meddlepopup (Taken with instagram)

Kielbasa for tonight’s Devil’s Backbone beer crawl.  (Taken with instagram)

Kielbasa for tonight’s Devil’s Backbone beer crawl. (Taken with instagram)

Over winter carrots from @FarmerRussell. They have such a sweet flavor. Incredible. (Taken with instagram)

Over winter carrots from @FarmerRussell. They have such a sweet flavor. Incredible. (Taken with instagram)